All varieties of peas need a bit of preparation, and when cooking, quick is the trick. Green garden peas often come shelled, but to shell your own, open the pods by pressing on one end until the pod pops, then run your thumb down the opening to release the peas. Cook in boiling salted water until just tender, about 3 minutes. Or place peas in a vegetable steamer over a saucepan of boiling water, cover and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. The pods of snow peas and sugar snaps are edible but should be trimmed. For snow peas, pinch off the ends. For sugar snaps, remove the string along the seam by pinching the stem end with your fingernail and pulling the string down the length of the pod. Fresh sugar snap and snow peas are delicious eaten raw but are also great sautéed or blanched. To blanch, cook in boiling water for about 30 seconds. Drain immediately and eat right away. For crudités, cool in ice water then drain.

Smashed Pea Spread 10 oz. peas, fresh or frozen 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or butter 1/4 cup finely grated fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano Fresh lemon juice to taste

Cook peas in boiling salted water until just tender, 3 minutes. Drain peas and pulse in a food processor with remaining ingredients until a coarse paste forms. Season with salt and pepper and serve spread on toast. Serves 4.

Sugar Snap, Tomato and Feta Salad 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup grape tomatoes, halved 1/2 lb. sugar snap peas or snow peas, strings discarded 3/4 lb. feta, cup into 1/4-inch-thick slices 1/4 cup fresh mint leaves

Heat oil in a skillet over moderately high heat and sauté tomatoes and peas, stirring until peas are crisp tender, about 2 minutes. Spoon vegetables over feta on plates and sprinkle with mint and fresh-ground black pepper. Serves 4 to 6.